On the Georgia bend of the St. Mary’s river sits the unincorporated town of St. George. It is a mere speed bump on GA 121, and we pass through this area of Charlton County a couple times a year on our way to see Becky’s family in Hilliard, Florida. Every time we pass through St. George I plan to stop at the Shack by the Tracks, but due to one thing or another I never had a chance to sample their BBQ.
I was finally able to tick this restaurant off my list on a recent visit to Nassau County for a pair of graduation parties. The Shack by the Track looks like it fell out of BBQ typecasting. Ice cream and shakes are available from the right side of the building. A small screened in dining area bridges the gap to the left side where BBQ is served from a small window. The heart of the BBQ side, a long smoker, sits under a small covered area. Wisps of gray and white rose from the pit and filled the air with delicious hardwood smoke.
I ordered the large pork sandwich for $7.00 and requested the BBQ sauce on the side. I watched as the smoker door was opened, and fresh meat was taken out. Moments later I was handed a small white clamshell foam box and a container of BBQ sauce. The pork spilled out of the hamburger bun. Sadly the meat that topped my sandwich had not mingled with the smoke that filled the air. While the pork was moist and well cooked it had zero smoked flavor. The BBQ sauce, a thick mustard based variety, was deep ochre in color. It was good, and I covered the meat with the contents of the small clear plastic cup.
Following an afternoon in Hilliard, FL we made our way back home and stopped at the Shack by the Track to get ice creams for the kids. While Mason and Miss Julia ate cups of chocolate and strawberry ice cream I decided to try the large beef sandwich for $9.00. The girl at the window said it was brisket, and I again watched as the smoker door opened, and fresh meat was taken out. A small white foam box, identical the one I had opened seven hour earlier, was handed through the window along with a serving of their spicy BBQ sauce. Instead of sliced brisket the sandwich was piled with pulled beef. It was moist but again lacked any smoked flavor. The spicy BBQ sauce was tomato based and had a nice kick. When poured over the pulled beef it made for a good sandwich.
The BBQ at the Shack by the Track was not bad, and the portion sizes are huge, but I wish their meats had a trace of the smoke that filled the air. Service was friendly and the restaurant was very clean.
The Shack by the Track is open Thursday – Sunday from 11 a.m. – 8 p.m. The restaurant is located at 245 Jackson Street and does not have an online presence.
Sweet Tea & Bourbon’s Rating: